Monthly Archives: May 2012

Grandma Louie

For each of my classes we have had to write a research paper.  I wrote about Pesach for my Jewish foods class, created my own Chianti and wrote about it for Wines, gave an oral presentation on my family for Italian, and wrote about Michelangelo’s Last Judgement for my Renaissance class.

When we were choosing topics in my World War II class, Amy and I choosing from a list of topics he gave us and were thinking of writing about the Holocaust in Italy, something we already knew a lot about but learning about the Italian side of it would add depth to what we already know.  Our professor then asked if anyone had any family in Italy in WWII and when I said my Grandma was, he got VERY excited and told me that I could write about her for my research paper!  And so, the greatest research paper to ever be written was born.

Here we are!

Backstory on Grandma: My Grandma Louie just turned 92 years old on Thursday, and is pretty much one of the greatest grandmas ever. I joke that she slightly condones mediocrity, for example when I was little she used to come to my dance recitals and say loudly to my dad “she’s really the best one on stage” and anyone who knows me, knows that that certainly was NOT true.  She also bought my Uggs my senior year of high school as a present for being in the play.  I had no lines.  I think I get part of my inflated ego from her, but know that it’s not as much the mediocrity that she condones as it is her obsession with her grandchildren and family.  She also has a better social life than I do and that’s not an exaggeration.  I have to book her in advance.

When Louie isn’t busy looking fabulous, you can find her being a straight-up diva in Queens.  She has 6 grandchildren and claims to not have a favorite although none of us believe her.  It’s really an ongoing battle in our family because being the favorite grandchild of the greatest woman ever is a pretty big deal.  And now on to her WWII story.

it was actually harder than you would think to find a picture of the three of us

Well, before I begin, I would like to thank a couple of people for making it all possible.  First, thank you Aunt Carole, for facilitating and organizing my Grandma’s retelling of the story, providing me with the pictures I used for the presentation (and now for my blog), and serving as the liaison between me and Grandma. Next, I would like to thank my little cousin, Emma, for being Grandma’s scribe and writing her memory of her story, complete with the most adorable rainbow-colored cover page.

Grandma with her parents, Margherita (who I’m named after) and Andrea

So my Grandma, Luisa Ceci, was born in Vallecorsa in 1920.  She moved to California when she was 7 years old, but returned to Rome in 1934 when she was 14.  This was right as Hitler was starting to rise to power in Europe, and although the US Dept of State urged her and her mother- American citizens- to return to the US in 1939, her uncle in Italy thought that the war would be over soon, and so they stayed.

She received her high school diploma in 1941 (she had to repeat some grades because she lost her ability to speak Italian while in America and so she had to relearn the language) and began studying at the University of Rome.  Fun fact: my Grandma was the first woman in her town to go to college and receive a diploma!!

Her ID for the University of Rome

In July 1943, Mussolini’s government was overthrown by the Fascist Grand Council and Badoglio took over as Prime Minister.  On September 8, 1943, it was announced that Italy had signed an Armistice with America, and they would cease fighting.  The Italian army was disbanded, and soliders fled the German army to their homes.  Thousands were captured and deported and chaos ensued.  My Grandma and her mother decided to return to Vallecorsa.

this is a postcard of Vallecorsa. I believe our property is the big yellow house in the center.

Her grandfather’s house was on this land, although it was destroyed and rebuilt. This land was where the Germans were headquartered.

Things weren’t much safer there.  The Germans took over northern Germany after the Armistice was announced and created the Republic of Salo- a puppet state- with Mussolini as leader once again.  Vallecorsa was in this Republic, so German officials were in charge of the town- actually top German officials were using my great-great Grandfather’s farmhouse as a headquarters.

The road in Vallecorsa was one of the only roads still leading to Rome (ironic, I know.  We all thought all roads lead to Rome, but not at this point in time) so the Americans bombed the town every morning at 9am to destroy the road and cut off the Germans.  On the first day of the bombing 95, civilians were killed.  94 of them were found, but my Grandma’s aunt, Laura Ceci Mauri was not.  There’s now a plaque in Vallecorsa in her memory.

the plaque

It really is a miracle that my Grandma survived, because she had many close encounters and made a lot of risky decisions that could have gotten her in serious trouble, or worse, killed.

There’s Margherita on the farm!

At one point she and her mom, Margherita, were “selected” by the Germans to cook for them in their headquarters.  They had them peel potatoes, but at that time women of a certain means did not do manual labor so my Grandma did not know how.  The Germans did not believe her, but luckily my Grandma was friends with the mayor of Vallecorsa who relieved them of their duty.

My Grandma and Nonna also housed Italian soldiers who had fled the German army in their chicken coop, farmhouse, and barn.  Food was very scarce, so many of the refuges were forced to eat the grass that grew on the farm.  Every day the Germans- who lived only 500 meters away in Luisa’s grandfather’s house- would come to the farm looking for olive oil and salt.  My grandma would have to run out and give it to them quickly, in order to avoid them coming into the house and discovering the refuges.

One day, my Grandma went outside a little bit before the scheduled bombings.  An allied bomber saw her and, perhaps thinking she was a German soldier, came down from the sky and began to shoot at her with a machine gun.  She threw herself on the ground and covered her head.  There were holes in the ground from the shells all around her, but somehow she survived this attack.

As the food grew more scarce and the Germans demanded more, Luisa and her mother had to abandon the farmhouse and depart for higher mountains in Il ravo Cap D’asino.

Grandma, Carly, and Me in Monte Cassino Summer 2010

Here they were much closer to the Battle of Monte Cassino, and could hear the gunfire throughout the day.  They also were able to watch the bombing of the town and would look for their big, white house every day to make sure that it was still standing.  It stood until May 1944.

Eventually they had to leave the house they had been staying in, and sought refuge in a cave with two men.  These men were Italian officers and were armed so they would leave everyday to find food, dodging the shells from Monte Cassino.  Nearby there was a much larger cave, “Grotte del Calvo”, which accommodated 400 people, so they moved in there.

A Church in Vallecorsa. This is where the rape scene in the movie “Two Women” was filmed and took place

One day, someone approached Luisa and told her that the Americans had arrived.  She ran out to greet the soldier in English, however they did not understand her.  They instead pointed to her wristwatch and said “argento”, the French word for “silver.”  These soldiers were not Americas after all, but instead the infamous Moroccans.  They arrived to liberate the town before the Americans and in the time they were there raped thousands and looted the town.  They chased my grandma back to her cave, but were thankfully scared off by the armed men in the cave with her.  Their valuables were also saved thanks to the cleverness of Margherita, who hid all of her real valuables and cried and made a scene when they tried to take the fake gold she was wearing.

Eventually the Americans arrived and Luisa returned to her village.  On the way down all they saw were the corpses of dead Germans and the abandoned valuable the Moroccans had stolen but not been able to carry on their donkeys. Since their farm had been destroyed, they ended up staying with friends in town until they followed the American forces to Rome where they stayed until they returned to America in the fall of 1945, after the war was over.  She continued her studies at the University of Southern California, met Abe Jacobson and the rest is history.

And now a quote from Grandma on war: “The atrocities committed in concentration camps throughout Europe overshadowed my sufferings and travails in the battlefield of Monte Cassino.  I had hoped war would end forever but mankind has not learned its lesson and hostilities still continue…My prayer is that my grandchildrens’ generation will witness the end of all wars”

This story isn’t in its complete form, but I thought that it needed to be shared on my blog because my experience in Florence really gave me a deeper connection to my Grandma and my Italian roots.  My other three grandparents are Jewish, so I feel like I’m carrying on their legacy and honoring their culture and history with every holiday I celebrate and Jewish milestone I reach.  But Grandma is Italian, so I really have to work harder in order to celebrate her history, and I’m so thankful that I was able to be in Italy for a semester to do that.

HAPPY MOTHERS DAY GRANDMA!

The Honeymooners

Click for Croatia guide

Steph and I were supposed to take a nice group trip down to Croatia, the prettiest place on earth last weekend.  Unfortunately,  euroadventures cancelled the trip and so we ended up the only two people still willing to foot the 12 hour bus ride, so we went alone.  JUST THE TWO OF US.

The bus ride wasn’t as terrible as would have been expected, we overdosed on tylenol pm and slept the entire way there and arrived fresh faced and numb at 9am.  (It was freezing and we also lost circulation from not moving for 12 hours).  We arrived at the hostel, which was actually kind of awesome, ate breakfast, and headed out.

We first went to the highest point of the area, Marjan Hill (pronounced just like my mother’s favorite tiles game) and ordered lemonade/coffee and took in the view.  Croatia is literally one of the most beautiful places I have ever been too.  I am actually deciding between Croatia and the Galapagos for the most naturally beautiful places I’ve been.  Split was so cute, with it’s little marble promenade with cafes and benches on the water.  It was just breathtaking.

just a casual battle of the marching bands on the promenade

It was also the Croatia Boat Show!  After attending the Antibes Yacht Show, I guess one could say I’m kind of a boat connoisseur now.  There were also a lot of marching bands hanging around, which may or may not have been related to the boat show but was a weird sight to see.

they just had these steps leading from the promenades into the crystal clear water everywhere!

After hanging out at Marjan, we went to the beach where we rented these lounge chairs on the water, had a delicious meal,  and then went back to the hotel to get ready for dinner.  On our way to dinner we went into the historic square and there was a musician playing while everyone sat on the stairs of this square and watched.  There were these two adorable children who were around 3 or 4 playing together and it was the cutest thing we’ve ever seen.  They didn’t know each other so the entire time they would play this game where they would dance together and then one would get shy and run to their parents and repeat.  It was so cute.

The next day we woke up and went on a boat to go island hopping.  They called it a Booze Cruise- but no alcohol was actually served people just brought their own.  At first we sat on the top deck of the boat but we later realized what I should have known from the week I spent in the Galapagos- the lower deck is always the place to go.  Everyone on the top deck was being loud and annoying and rowdy and Steph and I wanted to just relax and take in the rays.  The bottom deck was much better.

island #1. Life is so rough.

We got to the first island which had a tiny town (if one could even call it that) where Steph and I got coffee and then walked along the shore.  The water was crystalline clear and so blue and it was just incredible.  We walked around for a bit and then got back onto the boat, where they served lunch.  Lunch was lettuce with pepper and chicken with pepper.  They certainly love black pepper.  Steph and I clearly sat alone- although I do have to say that we made 4 friends on this trip!  We’re so sociable.

The next island we went to was even less of a town and equally as adorable.  We laid out on rocks and went into the water for a bit and just relaxed before getting back on the boat.

When we got back we literally ran back to shower and then met to go to this cute little medieval town on the water for dinner.  It was an interesting experience, but the food was great and we got good ice cream.  We also heard that this was the place they used to take their mistresses back in the day, so of course Steph and I joked that that’s why we were going.

The next morning we had breakfast and got on the bus for a 2 hour trip to a national park.  This place was INCREDIBLE.  Imagine Avatar.  That’s what this was.  (I never actually saw Avatar, but everyone else made this connection and I google imaged the movie and concur).  We walked on this wooden pathway through crystalline water and waterfalls and it was breathtaking and we took a million pictures.

We then got back on the bus and drove for 10 hours.  It was a pretty long ride, but we watched some good movies, got annoyed with the people behind us, and were just generally too contented with the weekend to care that it was a long ride.

We are obsessed with this place.  The great thing about Croatia is that it is truly a hidden gem.  It is by far one of the most gorgeous places on earth, but its also so pristine and pure.  It didn’t feel like it was filled with tourists and we frequently felt like we were the only people there.  It was unbelievable and I think everyone should go if they could.  We didn’t really do much except relax, eat, and take in the natural beauty- but it was still one of our favorite trips.

On a less happy note, while we were in Croatia, Dayna started experiencing stomach pains and so Amy had to take her to the emergency room.  She ended up needing to have her appendix taken out on Friday and then just went home today.  WE MISS YOU.  Luckily, she was released from the hospital Monday and improved significantly every day so we were able to see her a lot during the last week and she was able to eat gelato and Italian food before returning to New York.

BUT WE MISS YOU SO MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just a warning, these pictures do NOT do Croatia justice.  It was really hard to choose the ones to post, and none can really capture how pretty Croatia is.